Through Arctic Lapland

In Short

This travelogue documents a summer expedition through the remote interior of Arctic Lapland, a region largely unmapped by Western tourists at the end of the nineteenth century. The narrative follows two travelers as they navigate vast lakes, dense forests, and treacherous swamps in search of an experience untouched by standard guidebooks. Known for its vivid descriptions of the landscape, the challenges of local travel, and the endurance required to survive the "horrible flies," the work serves as both a personal account and an observational study of a fading, nomadic way of life.

The Story

The expedition begins in Vardö, where the authors find themselves in a rush, lacking both a planned route and a guide. Advised by locals that the interior of Lapland is effectively inaccessible in the summer due to the impassable swamps and the swarms of insects, they resolve to make the journey anyway. They initially struggle with the logistics of currency and language, eventually recruiting local Finnish and Lappish carriers to help transport their supplies.

The travelers move inland, crossing the divide into the Pasvik River valley. Their journey is defined by the constant, overwhelming presence of mosquitoes and horseflies, which plague them and their guides incessantly. As they travel, they observe the distinct cultural differences between the Finns and the Lapps—the former more industrious and settled, the latter more nomadic and picturesque in their traditional attire. They encounter the complexities of hiring help, as their carriers frequently attempt to mutiny or return home, citing sore feet, business concerns, or general fatigue. The authors employ firm, sometimes harsh, methods to keep the team moving forward.

The path takes them through abandoned villages and across vast, unpopulated stretches of forest and lake. They hear local tales of hidden Viking treasures and rumored supernatural phenomena, including reports of strange, airborne objects. Despite the physical exhaustion and the oppressive heat of the constant, twenty-four-hour Arctic sun, they continue their trek toward Rovaniemi. Along the way, they stay with hospitable locals, including a local postmaster and a "little chemist" who takes great pride in his elaborate winter reindeer-sleigh gear.

The journey concludes as they reach the relative civilization of Rovaniemi. By this point, the authors are weary from the mosquitoes, the arduous hiking, and the constant navigation of difficult terrain. They reflect on the contrast between the rugged, ancient life they have witnessed—characterized by reindeer herding and a reliance on the land—and the creeping modernization they see in the towns. They leave the region having successfully crossed the heart of the territory, gaining a deeper, if exhausting, understanding of a place where the seasons dictate every aspect of human survival.

How It Unfolds

The voyage begins The travelers set out from Vardö with little preparation, ignoring warnings from locals who believe the interior is impassable during the summer months. They struggle to find guides who speak a common language, eventually cobbling together a team of Finns and Lapps.

The march inland The group navigates the Pasvik River and the surrounding forests, where the "land of horrible flies" becomes their primary adversary. They document the endurance required to manage luggage and the constant physical toll of the biting insects.

The struggle for momentum The carriers repeatedly threaten to abandon the expedition due to exhaustion and a desire to return to their families. The authors maintain control of the group through persistent negotiation and the authority of their remaining wages.

Life in the wilderness The group interacts with local builders and herders, learning about reindeer husbandry and the local folklore surrounding Viking relics. They observe the stark difference between the summer landscape and the harsh reality of the winter months.

The arrival at Rovaniemi The expedition reaches the relative comfort of Rovaniemi, marking the end of their difficult trek. They conclude their journey with a final look at the town's customs and the lingering memories of their intense, mosquito-ridden passage.

The People

The authors serve as the primary observers, driven by a desire for discovery and a frustration with the limitations of conventional travel. They are pragmatic, sometimes impatient men who prioritize their goal of crossing the interior over the comfort of their guides.

Johann stands out among the carriers as a man of immense appetite and humor. Despite his own discomfort, he remains the most attentive member of the crew, often performing small acts of service for the authors that endear him to them. He serves as a bridge between the travelers and his fellow countrymen, though he is not immune to the exhaustion that grips the group.

The carriers, Pat and Pedr, are characterized by their fluctuating dedication. They are often sulky and prone to mutiny when the physical demands of the journey exceed their endurance. They are tethered to their traditional ways, yet they are also pragmatic about the wages they earn from the foreigners.

The "little chemist" appears as a figure of local pride and sophistication, particularly regarding his winter gear. He represents the transition between the traditional nomadic lifestyle of the Lapps and the more settled, modern life found in the growing towns of the region.

In Its Own Voice

"It was a surprise to us to learn (and may we add that the surprise was not without its pleasant savour?) that of all the volumes in that collection not one covered the route which we took during summer through Arctic Lapland."

The authors reflect on their discovery that their journey through the region had been largely undocumented by previous writers.

"The one drawback to our perfect pleasure were the thickening swarms of mosquitoes."

The authors capture the defining obstacle of their summer trek through the northern wilderness.

"The forest is always greedy to take back any territory of which man has robbed it."

The authors comment on the way the wilderness reclaims abandoned settlements as they push through the overgrown landscape.

What It's Really About

The narrative explores the tension between human ambition and the indifference of nature. The authors seek to "observe things for ourselves," yet they find that the Arctic environment—defined by its relentless sun, insect swarms, and vast, empty forests—is not a backdrop for human conquest, but a force that dictates the limits of travel. Underlying the journey is a fascination with the "oldest tribe in Europe," the Lapps, and how their nomadic existence is increasingly pressured by the encroachment of modern, settled life. The book questions the validity of external knowledge, suggesting that real understanding only comes from the raw, often uncomfortable, process of experiencing a place firsthand.

Why Read It Today

Readers with an interest in the history of exploration or the stark beauty of the Arctic will find this a fascinating, if sometimes grueling, read. The writing captures the unique atmosphere of the "land of the midnight sun," where the absence of natural darkness creates a surreal, tireless rhythm to daily life. It is an honest account that does not romanticize the difficulties of travel; the authors are candid about their own frustrations, the physical toll of the "horrible flies," and the period-typical attitudes that colored their interactions with the local people.

The book is best suited for those who appreciate the voice of a nineteenth-century traveler—observant, slightly cynical, and deeply curious. You will feel the weight of the packs and the persistent itch of the insect bites, as the authors lean into the sensory details of their trek. While some of the attitudes toward the local carriers reflect the era’s colonial assumptions, the vivid, ground-level reporting of a vanishing way of life remains compelling. It is a testament to a time when travel meant complete immersion in the unknown, rewarding the reader with a glimpse into a world that has since been thoroughly mapped and modernized.