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The greedy book

A gastronomical anthology

Frank Schloesser (d. 1913)

Cooking & Drinking6 min read·1,225 words

A celebration of the table that turns dining into an art, this collection of essays explores the history, literature, and eccentricities of human appetite.

In Short

Frank Schloesser's The Greedy Book is a lighthearted, erudite tour through the traditions and curiosities of epicurean culture. Moving effortlessly from classic recipes and historical banquets to literary references and restaurant anecdotes, the book explores how food intersects with art, culture, and social life. Rather than a straightforward manual for the kitchen, it operates as an engaging guide to table philosophy, showing that true enjoyment requires judgment, curiosity, and a deep respect for natural flavors. It endures as a charming snapshot of early twentieth-century gastronomic wit and social history.

The Story

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The book opens with a defense of cooking as a true art form rather than a mere mechanical chore, establishing that those who wish to appreciate a fine dinner must grasp the spirit of culinary craftsmanship. Schloesser immediately sets a tone of civilized discrimination, contrasting heavy, overly elaborate banquets with lighter, artistically balanced menus that respect the inherent flavor of every ingredient.

From this foundational philosophy, the progression moves into the realm of social habits surrounding the table. The author takes aim at modern distractions, particularly the trend of loud, intrusive music in restaurants, arguing that dining requires its own dedicated atmosphere free from showy spectacle. He then traces the intersection of culinary history and literature, uncovering forgotten food poems, old ballads, and rhymed recipes that prove poets and scholars have long drawn inspiration from the kitchen.

As the text unfolds, it investigates specific, isolated subjects that define the epicurean landscape. Schloesser examines the precise art of preparing salads, delving into seventeenth-century treatises and the legends of famous emigré salad-makers. He takes on literary disputes, such as unpacking the origins of Mrs. Glasse’s famous culinary misattributions, and moves on to analyze actual menus gathered from around the globe. These menus range from royal Japanese banquets featuring iced whale to bizarre novelty meals where every course centers on the banana.

The narrative journey then turns toward the finer details of dining and service. Schloesser presents a spirited discussion of oysters—their history, artificial fattening by the ancient Romans, and skyrocketing prices—before turning an eye toward the world of restaurant waiters. Here, he exposes the tricks and petty frauds of dishonest staff while celebrating master maitres d’hôtel who defend the dignity of their craft. He explores historical and foreign delicacies, including the precise, proteid-rich preparation of edible snails.

In its final stages, the book examines the heroic kitchen feats of famous personalities, highlighting how Alexandre Dumas brought his theatrical genius directly to the stove top. The arc concludes with a historical look at Lenten fasting, showing how religious abstinence evolved over centuries from severe prohibitions against all animal products into an excuse for creative, highly sophisticated meatless dining. The entire work leaves the reader with a refined appreciation for the table as a place of culture, humor, and endless intellectual interest.

How It Unfolds

The philosophy of cookery The narrative begins by establishing that eating is an art requiring judgment, praising simple, natural flavors over heavy, overly complicated meals.

Music and distraction The discussion turns to restaurant atmosphere, criticizing noisy dinner bands while sharing historical traditions of musical honors accorded to grand feast dishes.

Poetry in the kitchen Exploring literature and verse, the text uncovers old English ballads, rhymed French sauce recipes, and humorous poems celebrating the joys of good eating.

The art of the salad Focusing on green dishes, the book reviews ancient Italian treatises and famous historical anecdotes of professional salad-mixers who made fortunes catering to nobility.

Curiosities of the menu A broad tour of world menus highlights everything from authentic Scandinavian, Spanish, and Italian meals to surreal themed dinners based on Lewis Carroll's writings.

Oysters, waiters, and snails The focus shifts to dining room details, contrasting the ancient history and rising cost of oysters with the sharp practices of dishonest waiters and the preparation of snails.

Lenten traditions and genius The final sections showcase Alexandre Dumas dominating his kitchen between writing novel chapters, ending with a detailed look at the history of Lenten fasts and meatless menus.

The People

Frank Schloesser The guiding voice and author who acts as a witty, knowledgeable epicurean guide. He wants readers to cultivate true judgment at the table, standing firmly against tasteless culinary trends, heavy meals, and noisy restaurant distractions.

Joseph of the Tour d’Argent A brilliant maitre d’hôtel born in Birmingham who represents the pinnacle of restaurant service. He demands that guests respect the natural flavors given by God and fiercely enforces dining etiquette, even at the cost of losing rude, wealthy patrons.

Mrs. Glasse A famed historic cookbook author whose actual existence and genius are debated. Her legacy stands as a central puzzle in culinary history, remembered largely for a famous phrase about preparing a hare that she never actually wrote.

Alexandre Dumas The grand French novelist who treats the kitchen as a stage for his boundless energy. He delights in rescuing panicked cooks, barking orders to turn onlookers into scullions, and creating culinary masterpieces in a chaotic flurry between writing novel chapters.

In Its Own Voice

“Whosoever desires to criticize a dinner and the dishes that compose it--and enjoyment without judgment is unsatisfactory--need not be a cook, but must understand what cooking implies.”

The author establishes that true pleasure at the dinner table requires a thoughtful understanding of the culinary craft rather than blind consumption.

“Make the good things as plain as possible. God gave a special flavour to everything. Respect it. Do not destroy it by messing.”

A legendary maitre d’hôtel summarizes the core philosophy of the book, warning against over-complicating dishes and ruining natural ingredients.

“The blustering, boisterous genius as easily dominated the kitchen as he did the literary world of the time.”

This observation captures the energetic spirit of Alexandre Dumas as he turns from writing fiction to commanding the stewpans.

What It's Really About

Beneath its collection of recipes, menus, and historical trivia, the book argues that eating is a fundamental cultural expression rather than mere physical refueling. It examines how human civilization refines basic appetite into a subtle, artistic discipline. The text continuously contrasts true refinement with ostentatious display, arguing that genuine luxury lies in simplicity, proper preparation, and respect for natural flavors. By weaving together literature, history, and social satire, it questions how modern society can preserve civil dining habits amidst growing distractions, commercial dishonesty, and vulgar trends. Ultimately, it celebrates the table as a primary space for intellectual curiosity, humor, and human connection.

Why Read It Today

This book will delight readers who enjoy food history, literary anecdotes, and classic essays on culture. Reading it feels like sitting across the dinner table from an exceptionally well-read, witty companion who possesses an endless store of forgotten historical facts and sharp observations. Its prose moves with an easy, unhurried rhythm that makes even obscure seventeenth-century treatises feel entertaining and fresh.

Modern readers should be prepared for its distinctly Edwardian perspective and British framing. The text features frequent untranslated French terms, historic literary references, and period dining customs that reflect the early 1900s. It also reflects the heavy, meat-centric focus of traditional Western European gastronomy, alongside casual period observations of foreign cuisines and social classes. However, these elements offer an authentic window into a bygone era of dining culture. What stays with you is the author's joyful insistence that taking food seriously is one of life's most rewarding pleasures.

This summary was written by AI (g4f/auto) on 2026-08-23 and is a guide to the book, not a replacement for it — it can be incomplete or wrong. The book itself is public domain. Copyright & AI disclosure · Report a problem

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