Pen and pencil sketches of Faröe and Iceland

In Short

Andrew James Symington’s 1862 travelog chronicles a summer voyage through the Faroe Islands and Iceland. Blending personal diary entries, landscape description, and cultural commentary, the author documents his passage from coastal settlements to active volcanic sites. Along the way, he gathers historical accounts, local legends, and ancient poetry. The volume endures as a vivid portrait of nineteenth-century Scandinavian life and geography, preserving the immediate, keen observations of an curious traveler navigating rugged terrain alongside local guides and international scholars.

The Story

The narrative begins with a sea voyage heading northward toward the Faroe Islands and Iceland. As the ship approaches the landmasses, the author observes dramatic coastal rock formations, isolated islets, and thousands of nesting sea-birds. The vessel stops at Thorshavn before pushing on past Portland Huk and the Westmanna Islands toward the Icelandic coast. Along the shore, vast glaciers creep down valley slopes into the ocean, and waterfalls drop directly into the surf from towering cliffs. Upon arriving in Reykjavik, the traveler enters local society, exchanging calls with public officials, Danish officers, and resident scholars.

Leaving the capital behind, the author embarks on an overland expedition into the interior. Accompanied by guides and fellow travelers, he rides sturdy Icelandic ponies across treacherous, rocky lava fields, steep mountain passes, and swollen rivers like the Bruará. The party journeys to iconic geographic features, including the immense volcanic fissure of the Almannagjá and the geothermal basins of the Great Geyser. At the Geysers, they set up camp, test the boiling thermal waters, and trigger eruptions by pitching sod into the vents. Throughout this trek, the text records the raw physical realities of the journey—rough terrain, unpredictable weather, and the sheer peril of navigating steep mountain descents on horseback.

Beyond the immediate travel narrative, the work broadens into a wide-ranging examination of the island’s physical history and traditional culture. Historical records document the terrifying disruptions of volcanic eruptions, such as those of the destructive Kötlugjá rent, detailing centuries of farm abandonments and ash-covered deserts. The author balances these environmental observations with extended translations of native folklore—such as the tale of the moss-gatherers Salvör and Biarni, or the enchanted shepherd involved with the mysterious Hildur—and literal renderings of ancient Eddic poetry, including the wisdom verse of the Hávamál.

The return leg of the journey traces the eastern fjords, stopping at tiny trading posts like Seydisfiord where remote communities subsist on fish and wool trade. Here, Danish merchants, British shipowners, and local farmers interact in isolated wooden settlements under the shadow of barren mountain heights. Finally, the author boards the steamer Arcturus to head home across the North Atlantic, concluding with an overarching reflection on the shared cultural heritage and maritime spirit linking Scandinavia and Great Britain.

How It Unfolds

Heading into the North The journey opens at sea as the vessel cuts through the North Atlantic, passing strange, castellated coastal cliffs, isolated needle rocks, and sprawling glacier fields that meet the ocean shore.

Arrival in Reykjavik The author settles into the Icelandic capital, visiting local officials, exchanging news, admiring native silver craftwork, and observing how residents navigate the delicate political balance between Danish administration and French naval interest.

Into the Volcanic Interior Setting out on horseback, the travel party traverses steep mountain gorges, treacherous lava fields, and deep rivers, relying on the exceptional footing and calm demeanor of native ponies to reach hidden valleys.

At the Boiling Springs Encamped in the geothermal basin of the Geysers, the travelers observe violent steam explosions, measure thermal waters, and hold quiet Sunday services on the grassy banks nearby.

Witnessing Volcanic History The narrative pauses to document centuries of catastrophic eruptions from fissures like Kötlugjá, cataloging how past outbursts buried entire agricultural districts beneath vast tracts of dark volcanic sand.

Folk Tales and Ancient Verse The author incorporates local legends of mountain moss-gatherers and magical bridles alongside full translations of ancient Scandinavian Eddic poetry, celebrating the moral wisdom and literary heritage of the islanders.

Homeward via the Eastern Fjords Reaching remote eastern outposts like Seydisfiord, the author explores wooden trading factories, swims in the chilly fjord waters, and eventually boards the steamer for the return voyage, reflecting on the enduring historical ties between the northern nations.

The People

• Andrew James Symington seeks to capture the immediate freshness of the northern wilderness and its people through personal journaling, poetry, and detailed observation. He struggles against dangerous mountain trails and cold Atlantic weather, ultimately gaining a profound respect for the resilience and ancient heritage of the region.
• Professor Chadbourne is a stalwart American travel companion who shares the physical hardships of the trail. Facing steep, break-neck descents over jagged crags on horseback, he maintains a cool, steadfast composure alongside the author.
• Zöga is the primary Icelandic guide who leads the expedition into the interior. He handles the logistics of the pony trains, navigates treacherous river crossings, and interprets local culture and texts for the foreign travelers.
• The Rev. Olaf Pálsson is the Cathedral Rector in Reykjavik who assists the author with cultural and linguistic insights. He provides practical guidance on island travel, host etiquette, and coastal navigation.
• Biarni and Salvör are brother and sister in a traditional folk narrative included in the text. Salvör insists on joining a mountain gathering party despite her father's prophetic bad dream, falling ill in the wilderness while Biarni strives to protect her amidst strange encounters.
• Hildur is a mysterious housekeeper in a translated Icelandic legend who slips a magic bridle onto an unsuspecting shepherd late at night to ride him away to an underground realm.

In Its Own Voice

"The mist partially clears off and on our right we sight Portland Huk, the most southern point of Iceland. Here rocks of a reddish brown colour run out into the sea rising in singular isolated forms like castellated buildings..."

— The author describes his first dramatic glimpse of the Icelandic coastline from the deck of the approaching steamer.

"I was repeatedly compelled to lean back, touching the pony’s tail with the back of my head, in order to maintain the perpendicular, and avoid being shot forward, feet first, over its head, among the rocks."

— The author recounts a harrowing horseback descent down a steep, rocky mountain gorge.

"No better burden / Bears a man on his journey / Than mickle wisdom."

— A verse from the author's complete translation of the Hávamál, an ancient Scandinavian poem included in the text.

What It's Really About

Beneath its surface as a summer travelogue, the book is a study of human endurance in extreme environments and a celebration of northern heritage. The author continuously highlights how a small population maintains a rich intellectual life, sophisticated metalworking crafts, and a vast literary tradition despite living on a volatile, frost-and-fire-scarred island. The narrative explores the deep cultural links connecting Great Britain, the Faroe Islands, and Iceland, framing their shared Scandinavian roots as the foundation for a common spirit of enterprise, maritime prowess, and love of liberty. It contrasts the destructive, indifferent forces of nature—volcanoes, glaciers, and winter storms—with the enduring warmth, hospitality, and moral clarity of the islanders.

Why Read It Today

This volume will deeply satisfy lovers of classic nineteenth-century travel literature, northern history, and historical geography. Reading it feels like sitting beside a well-educated Victorian gentleman who is genuinely captivated by everything he encounters, from the flora along a boiling river to the intricate meter of an ancient Eddic poem. The prose carries a quiet, observational warmth that avoids cheap sensationalism in favor of precise, authentic reporting.

Readers should prepare for the deliberate pace of a Victorian text; the author frequently pauses his travel narrative to insert complete translations of folk tales, extensive tables of volcanic dates, or long philosophical musings on animal welfare and international politics. These digressions reflect the period's preference for broad, omnivorous learning rather than tight, single-subject focus. What remains with the reader is an abiding appreciation for the stark landscapes of the North Atlantic and a vivid picture of a time when reaching the interior of Iceland required sheer grit, patient ponies, and a willingness to ride straight into the unknown.