Fifty salads

In Short

This elegant, concise culinary manual serves as a practical guide for home cooks seeking to master the preparation of salads. Drawing on the author’s professional experience at landmark establishments like the Astor House, the volume moves beyond basic greens to include elaborate fish, meat, and vegetable compositions. It has endured as a classic because it champions the importance of high-quality condiments and the creative use of herbs, offering a clear, authoritative voice that remains relevant for anyone interested in the foundational principles of refined, professional salad-making.

The Story

The journey begins with the conviction that a salad is not merely an afterthought but the central achievement of a well-planned dinner. The author establishes that the secret to success lies in the personal attention of the host, urging readers to take command of their kitchens rather than delegating the task. The initial argument is simple: one must not attempt complexity too soon. The narrative of the kitchen starts with the mastery of a "plain dressing"—a precise ratio of four parts oil to one part vinegar—which serves as the bedrock for all subsequent creations.

As the reader progresses, the scope expands from simple lettuce and cress to more substantial, adventurous combinations. The text introduces the reader to the "Prince of the Menu," guiding them through the preparation of root vegetables, such as celeriac and carrots, and the careful treatment of seasonal sprouts. The argument evolves to prove that almost any ingredient—from salt cod and Yarmouth bloaters to rabbit and frog legs—can be transformed into a sophisticated dish when treated with the correct techniques of cleaning, poaching, and chilling.

The arc of the book reaches its peak in the detailed instructions for complex, "fancy" salads. Here, the author shifts focus to the aesthetic dimension, explaining how to utilize beet diamonds, radish designs, and wild flowers to turn a bowl of food into an artistic centerpiece. The narrative is punctuated by the inclusion of recipes attributed to others, such as the eccentric "Dumas Salad," which invites the reader to experiment with a wider array of flavors, including chervil, anchovy paste, and Hungarian pepper.

Towards the conclusion, the focus broadens to include the essential role of specialized herbs like tarragon and borage. The author posits that these "precious little herbs" are what differentiate the insipid from the exquisite. Finally, the narrative culminates in a practical summary of dressings, including a robust, complex recipe for an "E. C.'s Salad Dressing," which serves as the ultimate test of the reader's newfound proficiency. The ending is not a final goodbye but a call to action, leaving the reader with blank pages at the end of the volume to record their own culinary triumphs. The entire sequence reinforces a singular philosophy: that patience, high-quality ingredients, and a willingness to prioritize both flavor and beauty are the only paths to a perfect, successful meal.

How It Unfolds

The foundation of the craft The text establishes the necessity of using only the purest condiments, warning that inferior ingredients guarantee failure. It provides a rigid, non-negotiable ratio for the plain dressing, ensuring that the oil and vinegar never overwhelm the delicate nature of the greens.

The seasonal progression The recipes are organized to follow the cycle of the pantry, starting with simple spring greens and moving into hearty winter preparations. Each entry provides clear instructions on preparation, such as the specific boiling times for Brussels sprouts or the proper blanching of cauliflower to ensure vibrant color.

The elevation of the protein The book transitions from vegetable preparations to substantial fish and meat salads, including lobster, salmon, and cold roast lamb. It emphasizes the importance of keeping these protein-heavy dishes chilled, providing instructions for using ice-boxes or even improvised ice-beds for large gatherings.

The artistic finish The final chapters focus on the "masking" and garnishing of the salad, where the author encourages the reader to display their own "artistic taste and judgment." By integrating the "Chapon"—a piece of garlic-rubbed bread—into the bowl, the reader learns the final, traditional touches that signify a professional standard of preparation.

The People

The book is framed by the persona of the author, Thomas J. Murrey, who presents himself not as a distant instructor but as a seasoned professional who has walked the floors of the Astor House and the Continental Hotel. He acts as a mentor who is deeply suspicious of "nonsense" found in other cookbooks, positioning himself as the voice of reason and practical efficiency. He is demanding, insisting that the host must oversee the process personally to avoid the "exasperating" experience of a poor salad.

The "reader" is cast as an apprentice who needs to be guided away from bad habits, such as over-mixing or using cheap, rancid oils. The author also introduces figures like the French novelist Alexandre Dumas, whose specific approach to salad-making serves as a benchmark for creativity and refined taste. Other unnamed figures, represented by initials like "E. C." and "S. F.," appear as contributors who offer specialized dressings, suggesting a community of culinary experts that the reader is invited to join. These individuals serve as examples of how one might successfully navigate the balance between tradition and innovation, ultimately encouraging the reader to develop their own style and leave their own mark in the provided blank pages.

In Its Own Voice

The author highlights the importance of timing, noting that preparation must be immediate to preserve the integrity of the greens:

Do not prepare plain salads until the moment they are wanted at table.

The author invokes a historical standard for the art of mixing, drawing a connection between the beauty of the cook and the quality of the dish:

In ancient times the fairest and youngest lady at table was expected to prepare and mix the salad with her fingers.

The author emphasizes that a salad’s value is derived from its ingredients, warning against the common practice of using low-quality components:

The importance of using none but the purest condiments must not be overlooked, for a perfect salad cannot be made with inferior ingredients.

What It's Really About

This book is an argument for the discipline of simplicity. Beneath the practical instructions lies a belief that culinary success is not found in hiding ingredients under heavy sauces, but in the careful, thoughtful elevation of fresh components. It challenges the reader to treat the act of salad-making as a deliberate practice rather than a chore. The underlying question is how one might achieve elegance with modest means, suggesting that good taste is a result of judgment, patience, and the refusal to cut corners. It argues that the beauty of a dish is as essential as its flavor, and that the host’s personal involvement is the final, necessary ingredient in any truly successful social gathering.

Why Read It Today

Readers who appreciate the direct, no-nonsense style of professional kitchen manuals will find this volume deeply satisfying. It feels like a conversation with a stern but encouraging chef who values precision above all else. You will learn the historical context of ingredients that have largely faded from the modern American table, such as borage and rampion, which provides a fascinating glimpse into the culinary landscape of 1885.

The primary difficulty for a modern reader is the assumption that one has access to a wide array of fresh, seasonal produce and the time to spend forty minutes boiling beans or chilling fish on ice. Some recipes, such as those involving frog legs or canned bloaters, may strike the contemporary palate as eccentric or dated. However, the core advice—the importance of cold bowls, the proper ratio of oil to vinegar, and the artistic approach to garnishing—remains as valid today as it was in the nineteenth century. It is a slim, elegant book that stays with you, stripping away the clutter of modern convenience and reminding you that a truly perfect salad is a matter of simple, focused intent. It is an ideal companion for the home cook who wants to elevate their craft, offering a refreshing, hype-free standard that stands in stark contrast to the overly complex, marketing-heavy cookbooks of the current era.